So I got my 1st surfing lesson from Patrick the other week. It was great. The weather was hot, the water cool, and I had my pink board and the waves to myself. Patrick showed me how to paddle and go up to my knees on the board and said he'd help me judge the waves and such. I rode the 1st wave in on the board on my belly as instructed. It was cool. Next time he said knees so I did. Again super fun. The 3rd time he yells stand up so I do. Now that was what people always talk about. Surfing! Yea I was helped and only on about a 2ft wave but I was up! Then I called it a day, why spoil it. My 2nd time surfing was a bit different. We rode our new beach bikes to Sullivans and decided we'd drive out to Folly. We got there and there were a lot of fools in the water on boards. It was evening and the sun was setting. He said he wanted to get in and see how the waves were and I'd come in later. Me being me I walked out in the waves and got what was coming to me! I forgot that holding on to a HUGE pink floating piece of foam (or whatever it is) is an accident waiting to happen in the ocean. You all know where this is going. Surfing didn't happen that day, drowning almost did. I spend most of the time under water not surfing above it! I saw dolphins and almost had a heart attack. My suit is no longer wearable bc the bottoms were ripped off me and now are 3 sizes to big. I had scraps on my knees and one on my arm and 10 gallons of sea water in my ears, mouth, and nose BUT I still didn't hate it. The ocean has ALWAYS scared the hell out of me. There are monsters, sharks, sea creatures and deeeeep water out there. What are people doing in their home?? As I stated on facebook I was afraid of the beasts in the ocean BUT now I'm afraid of the beast herself. She is a wonder. I can't believe all those surfers that surf or get anywhere near a 60ft wave!?!?! I'm def hooked. I'm not obsessed like Patrick (eats, sleeps, and shits surfing) but I do want to get better and get a better board. Hey I wonder if I can have the most expensive hobbies; surfing, skiing, photography, etc.?? Life's short might as well enjoy it. Thanks Patty for the lessons. Anyone surf? Tried it?
